Dismantling and repairing the motor :o

[jeff-jordan]

...
Why don't you like your encoder-? Remember If you change to hall-sensors, you have to change Controller too.

I guess that's exactly why he want's to change to hall-sensors.... because there is no access to the controller of the E-Odin 3.0.
And as far as I can see, nobody succeeded with an alternative controller than the genuine one in combination with it's motor (E-Odin 3.0, encoder based).

[TwisterMax]

Then he should wait till I got my Fardriver Controller.
I'll report If it works or not.

[bob2.0]

My new seals have turned up so I can sand off the rusty poles, dust down the magnets, and get it back together.

I was thinking to use some sort of rubber seal for the cover plates, instead of sealant, but then I remembered they are structural connections, it holds the wheel to the bike! So I will get some sealant. Any recommendations? .. maybe bathroom sealant will do? There is no oil nor heat, just water and humidity, so, why not?

I have thought a lot about how to prevent further rust. I have come to the conclusion that I will simply wipe a very small amount of dexron (motor atf) fluid over the poles and magnets, spread it around to a very thin film.

The reason I have for doing this is because there is very little else that can do the job, and although it might slowly flow to the bottom, this is precisely where the humidity goes and that is where it has rusted.

So, if it is 'oil' it'll go to the same place the water goes to as it condenses inside. As long as it is not much, it will not bung up the air gap, and if it does, then it will only do what it is meant to do and make an oil film between the parts.

I mean, just the thinnest layer I can put on it.

ATF is the oil with the highest material compatibility.

I would welcome your thoughts.

[jeff-jordan]

That's more or less what I recommended at page#4 of this thread: "...just a thin layer of diesel will protect the surface from catching some flash rust..."

[MEroller]

As I wrote here before, I highly recommend using clear coat paint, in particular of the 2-Komponent sort, but solvent paint will do the job just as well. On all metal surfaces inside the motor. It will adhere much more durably to the metal over time, than oil can. But proper corrosion removal, then dust removal (strong vacuum cleaner), then thorough de-greasing. Before spraying on the paint, in two layers.
I have used this conservation method on two motors already, one hub motor, one pancake motor. Both documented here in the Forum.

[bob2.0]

As I wrote here before, I highly recommend using clear coat paint, in particular of the 2-Komponent sort, but solvent paint will do the job just as well. On all metal surfaces inside the motor. It will adhere much more durably to the metal over time, than oil can. But proper corrosion removal, then dust removal (strong vacuum cleaner), then thorough de-greasing. Before spraying on the paint, in two layers.
I have used this conservation method on two motors already, one hub motor, one pancake motor. Both documented here in the Forum.

Thank you for the comment and I did consider it.

Do you mean, the type you put on over topcoat on a car? I have a can I have not used.

I think the thing that concerns me is that if the poles and magnets are already just touching now, with what is really almost no rust, then any thickness of paint could fill the gap, and if it does then it just wears off again. But oil will move around and be pushed out if it is too thick.

I think I am over-analyzing this. It is why I thought I might just try oil first, because I can wipe it off easily if it doesn't work so I don't have to try to make the perfect choice.

[bob2.0]

That's more or less what I recommended at page#4 of this thread: "...just a thin layer of diesel will protect the surface from catching some flash rust..."

I think I like the basic approach, but perhaps diesel is too thin and does not stay adhered to create a film?

I have also considered assembly oil, the sort used to put on engine parts in assembly, because the oil has the property that it stays clinging to the surfaces. I have some of that too in the garage, not much used. If I can find it.

[Raulpahon]

...
Why don't you like your encoder-? Remember If you change to hall-sensors, you have to change Controller too.

I guess that's exactly why he want's to change to hall-sensors.... because there is no access to the controller of the E-Odin 3.0.
And as far as I can see, nobody succeeded with an alternative controller than the genuine one in combination with it's motor (E-Odin 3.0, encoder based).

That's it. When there is an engine error in the AMR engine we can't get anything. Not even with a new controller. Any version, prepared or not. Installing a hall sensor is to be sure that we have a working controller.

[TwisterMax]

That's it. When there is an engine error in the AMR engine we can't get anything. Not even with a new controller. Any version, prepared or not. Installing a hall sensor is to be sure that we have a working controller.

Why "can't you get anything"? With Fardriver ND72680b you will have same communication like to the hall-Controller.
When people change the controller of 6kW- AMR with Bluetooth -Connection to the Bike why should it Not Work with 10kW-version?

[jeff-jordan]

... With Fardriver ND72680b you will have same communication like to the hall-Controller...

Did you REALLY managed to get your Twister E-Odin 3.0S AMR motor with the ND72680b (encoder version of the ND72680) working?
If so, which encoder did you choose in the settings? I thought none of the options is compatible with that motor.
This info might be helpful for the forum members.
I know at least one who tried it, failed to do so and sold his E-Odin afterwards.