E-ODIN - Diskussionsthread

[Pinky]

Wo wir hier gerade bei den Hauptschaltern sind:

Neulich bin ich munter unterwegs gewesen, als plötzlich die Leistung wegbrach. Kurz vor dem Stillstand verlässt uns dann wie üblich auch das Display und es tut sich nix mehr. Die Situation kennt mittlerweile jeder Odin-Fahrer.

Woran hat et jelegen? Dat fragt man sich ja dann immer, woran hat et jelegen...
Dass der Hauptschalter sich mal verabschiedet wie oben beschrieben, kann ja natürlich mal sein. Bei mir war allerdings nur das Kabel "rausgerutscht".
Huch? DAS sollte aber nun wirklich nicht passieren. Selbstverständlich habe ich die Kabel sauber angezogen, aber die Vibrationen haben die Schrauben offenbar gelöst. Dann noch ein bisschen hin und her und schon rutscht das Kabel aus dem Hauptschalter. Nicht gut.

Bin dann ebenfalls so vorgegangen wie Jeff und habe mit Kabelbindern eine Zugentlastung gebaut. Selbst wenn sich die Schraube löst, würde das Kabel jetzt nicht mehr rausrutschen.

Dennoch empfiehlt es sich, auch diese Schwachstelle regelmäßig zu prüfen.


Jemand sollte mal eine "Inspektions-Checkliste" erstellen, die man als Odin-Fahrer regelmäßig durchlaufen sollte.

[Miguello80]

Hmm, interesting, they say Fardriver is inside... And 11kW instead of 10kW...
https://www.dayiroller.com/eu-warehouse ... c-dot.html
I sent them an e-mail with pre-order of two bikes but I doubt they will answer.
I will let you know if they answered.

[Miguello80]

So 11kW version does not have EEC certificate for Europe yet.

[Miguello80]

It seems I was right that the controller inside the 10kW version is Fardriver too. Yes, it does not work with BT dongle but check out this video - https://youtu.be/9kAgfHuoKTE?t=208 - 10kW AMR E-Odin in USA set up with PC app - see the first value "AngleDetect: Encoder" + he sells it on alexerides.com as 10kW AMR.
Only one thing I see that is different is that his controller is shown in app as "270" while those I saw were "220". That could be new batch (new shipment will be in Netherlands on August - info directly from Dayi) or new 11kW version that was announced on Dayimotor website that does not have certifications for Europe yet (also info directly from Dayi).
So anyone with 10kW version can try to buy or make an USB cable with UART and connect it to PC.
I do not have anybody with 10kW version nearby so I can not do it.
So at least I share this info. It is worth a try.

[Zimmermännche]

It seems I was right that the controller inside the 10kW version is Fardriver too. Yes, it does not work with BT dongle but check out this video - https://youtu.be/9kAgfHuoKTE?t=208 - 10kW AMR E-Odin in USA set up with PC app - see the first value "AngleDetect: Encoder" + he sells it on alexerides.com as 10kW AMR.
Only one thing I see that is different is that his controller is shown in app as "270" while those I saw were "220". That could be new batch (new shipment will be in Netherlands on August - info directly from Dayi) or new 11kW version that was announced on Dayimotor website that does not have certifications for Europe yet (also info directly from Dayi).
So anyone with 10kW version can try to buy or make an USB cable with UART and connect it to PC.
I do not have anybody with 10kW version nearby so I can not do it.
So at least I share this info. It is worth a try.

Hallo Miguello, das hatten wir alles hier in diesem Thread ( so ab ca. Seite 120) versucht, es war keine Kommunikation möglich. Die Belegung welche er im Kommentar zu seinem Video schreibt hat auch nicht funktioniert.
Später haben es andere hier im Forum mit ihrer Odin 3.0 auch probiert, ohne Erfolg. Vielleicht ist dort ja wirklich ein anderer Controller verbaut.

[bob2.0]

Can I offer this thought, or subject for discussion (as the thread title says)?

After having owned and ridden the most powerful and awe inspiring motorcycles from an early age in my career, and still have one, it did actually take me a few years to figure out what makes a motorcycle one that you really want to ride.

I came to realise, it was definitely not power. It's nice, but doesn't make the bike the best.

In my view, the most fun you can have on a bike is to be able to take it to its full performance, and for it to be lightweight, comfortable and nimble.

I accept, everyone has their own choices, I'm just discussing mine. And then there are different motorcycles for different uses. Sports, adventure, dual sport, touring, commuter, etc., each have particular advantages and disadvantages.

But I have never really found that 'power' makes a big difference to any of these.

The reason I quite like my 6kW e-Odin is because it stops me going so fast that the battery runs out too fast!

I can make it 80 miles with the accelerator pinned to full power. I often take it on motorways.

I also have ridden my son's 11kW 125cc bike, it is a Benelli that he is learning to ride on. Unlike him, I can take it onto the motorways and to be honest it is basically just like the e-Odin with a full battery charge.

But it slows down. Once I am 60% or so, the e-Odin can only keep up 50mph (80kph). I guess if it could keep up 60mph then I would not do 80 miles. I come off the motorway at 50mph, it is a nicer ride then.

So, speed is traded for range. And with less power is less speed and more range.

Here is my thesis; there is ALWAYS a faster motorcycle. There is ALWAYS one with more range. More luggage. More off-road, etc.. But, actually, my 6kW e-Odin is 'OK'. I like it because it does most of everything I want.

So, chasing for more power is a fool's errand. If your bike does not have 'enough power' then you have the wrong bike. It is why I resisted upgrading the controller.

There is another point I make also. In these small motorcycles, 125cc, it is, as we know, very bad for them to be held at full power for long distances. The engine wears with higher engine speed, and I hold my son's Benelli at 9,000 rpm on the motorway. Such motorcycles cannot cope with long high speeds. I have worn my 2-stroke out a few times with very high speed use.

Interestingly, at full power I only get 80mpg from my son's 125cc, but when used where it is meant to (urban riding) it will get 110~120mpg, or more. I can get 70-ish mpg riding my 150bhp motorcycle at the same speed, and the engine does not wear out! So, having a low power petrol motorcycle does not help too much for energy consumption. It is about keeping speed down to save energy.

Electric motorcycles are an interesting development, that they can be run at full power all the time and suffer no accelerated wear. So, you can have a low powered e-bike and used it to its maximum, but for a petrol machine it is better to have more power than you 'need' so it does not wear out fast.

[Miguello80]

Hallo Miguello, das hatten wir alles hier in diesem Thread ( so ab ca. Seite 120) versucht, es war keine Kommunikation möglich. Die Belegung welche er im Kommentar zu seinem Video schreibt hat auch nicht funktioniert.
Später haben es andere hier im Forum mit ihrer Odin 3.0 auch probiert, ohne Erfolg. Vielleicht ist dort ja wirklich ein anderer Controller verbaut.

I did not see any post that says "I tried to connect to it via USB + PC app and it did not work." Did you try it ? Did you use every UART type ? If so then I missed this information. Still - I would agree with you in one thing (that you did not say but I believe you thought about it) - when there is the same wiring for BT as for UART why would it work with UART and not with BT ? You think it will not work, I have some ideas so I did not lose hope (yet) but first I have to found a test subject.

[Zimmermännche]

Hallo Miguello, das hatten wir alles hier in diesem Thread ( so ab ca. Seite 120) versucht, es war keine Kommunikation möglich. Die Belegung welche er im Kommentar zu seinem Video schreibt hat auch nicht funktioniert.
Später haben es andere hier im Forum mit ihrer Odin 3.0 auch probiert, ohne Erfolg. Vielleicht ist dort ja wirklich ein anderer Controller verbaut.

I did not see any post that says "I tried to connect to it via USB + PC app and it did not work." Did you try it ? Did you use every UART type ? If so then I missed this information. Still - I would agree with you in one thing (that you did not say but I believe you thought about it) - when there is the same wiring for BT as for UART why would it work with UART and not with BT ? You think it will not work, I have some ideas so I did not lose hope (yet) but first I have to found a test subject.

Ich habe damals auch diverse Messungen gemacht und Jeff-Jordan war da auch sehr behilflich, leider ohne Erfolg, ich habe es dann aufgegeben (ab ca. Seite 120 in diesem Thread). Einige haben es später auch nochmal versucht, auch ohne Erfolg, auch einige mit defekten Odin 3.0 und einen Fahrdriver als Ersatz haben sie soweit ich weiß auch nicht ans Laufen bekommen.
Ich habe es damals über das Juletkabel mit dem USB FT232 Adapter versucht, wie es damals auch empfohlen wurde.
Den USB Adapter hatte ich damals auf Seite 117 oder so schon gezeigt.

[Miguello80]

Ich habe damals auch diverse Messungen gemacht und Jeff-Jordan war da auch sehr behilflich, leider ohne Erfolg, ich habe es dann aufgegeben (ab ca. Seite 120 in diesem Thread). ...

Yes, I read that.
Your picture from PC app - I got the same when my first connection was non-functional. With correct connection PC app started to receive signal.
I am not saying that it will work with wires connected differenty, but I still do not feel we tried all of what we can.
If you had time, try to use newer PC app from here: https://motoev.net/download/MotoEV-Fardrive/PC/
I guess you have proper RS232 drivers installed + correct COM port and bandwidth set.
Second thing - I used different chip with 3,3/5V switch that works with my Odin. I am not saying that your chip is not the right one or that mine is but there is lot of differences between various FT chips. Who does not know relations between UART, FT232, RS232 and TTL, use Google or AI.
Just saying that I will try it whenever I will have a chance. Only after that I could say "it does not work" or "it works", not yet.

[PO6EPT]

Hallo,
gestern habe ich meine Odin 3.0 Pro geladen und wollte los fahren, hat nur kleinen rucker gemacht und gelbe Warnleuchte ist angegangen.
Es war nicht heiß, nicht mitten in der Sonne oder so, also daran kann es nicht gelegen haben.
2x ist schon die Schmelzsicherung durchgebrannt, 1x 250A und 1x 175A, dann habe ich diese entfernt.

Batterie habe ich gecheckt diese ist in Ordnung, Display geht an, aber nichts tut sich.
Wie kann ich den Motor oder Controller prüfen?

Wäre sehr dankbar um Tipps was ich tun kann.

Vielleicht wohnt jemand in der Nähe von 91522 Ansbach und könnte sogar vorbei kommen.